Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
